纽约时报 | 36小时玩转罗马

36 Hours in Rome 36小时玩转罗马 For all its imperial and papa […]

36 Hours in Rome

For all its imperial and papal pomp and circumstance, Rome at heart is a beautiful child ― raucous, dreamy, secretive, a touch spoiled, by turns exasperating and enchanting. The child is on its best behavior during “le feste” ― the winter holidays. High season crowds thin, and dazzling light displays and slanting sunbeams compensate for the short days. Today’s Rome is a paradoxical place: even as many historic neighborhoods fall to mass-touristic homogeneity, outlying districts are becoming more vibrant and varied. For an authentic Roman holiday, get out of the centro storico and sample the pizza stalls of the Testaccio market and the funky wares at the nearby Porta Portese Sunday flea market, the nightclubs of San Lorenzo and Tiburtina, and neighborhood gelaterie like Neve di Latte and La Mucca Bianca. Tranquillity has never been Rome’s strong suit, but with a bit of planning (and flexibility), the Eternal City can be at its most bewitching at the onset of winter. (Though buses and trams crisscross the city, you’ll save time with two easy-to-navigate taxi apps ― My Taxi and It Taxi.)

虽说有皇家、教廷的壮丽与氛围,罗马本质上是个美丽的孩子――喧闹、梦幻、神秘,有点被惯坏的样子,有时怒气冲冲,有时精灵可爱。这个孩子在“le feste”――冬季节日期间表现最佳。旺季的人群散去了,绚丽的灯光展示和倾斜的阳光弥补了短暂的白天。今天的罗马是个吊诡的地方:尽管许多老街区为大众旅游所同质化,但边远地区正变得更加生机勃勃、丰富多彩。如要享受真正的罗马假期,可以前往历史中心(centro storico),尝尝泰斯塔乔(Testaccio)市场的披萨摊,试试附近波特赛门(Porta Portese)星期日跳蚤市场的时髦商品,逛逛圣洛伦索(San Lorenzo)和堤布堤纳(Tiburtina)的夜总会,转转Neve di Latte和La Mucca Bianca这样的社区冰淇淋店。宁静从来都不是罗马的强项,但只要稍作规划(加上灵活应对),这座永恒之城便可在冬季开始时最为迷人。(虽然公共汽车和有轨电车纵横交错,但您可以通过两个方便找路的出租车应用程序节省时间――My Taxi 和 It Taxi。)



1) 4 p.m. Old Bottiglia Shop

1)下午4点:老博蒂利亚店(Old Bottiglia Shop)

Ai Tre Scalini in Monti (not to be confused with the restaurant of the same name on Piazza Navona) is an informal, century-old neighborhood wine bar where locals rub shoulders comfortably with visitors. Reserve a table online or join the lively crowd at the bar for an Italian draft beer (Bav bitter or Birra del Borgo lager is 6 euros, or about $7) and Calabrese green olives or coppiette di maiale (spicy, oven-dried pork strips).

蒙蒂(Monti)区的Ai Tre Scalini(不要与纳沃纳广场[Piazza Navona]上的同名餐厅相混淆)是一个有百年历史的非正式街坊葡萄酒吧,在那里,当地人与游客舒适地擦肩而过。你可以在线订位或加入酒吧热闹的人群,享用一杯意大利生啤酒(Bav苦啤酒或意大利碉堡酒厂[Birra del Borgo]的拉格卖6欧元)和Calabrese香草绿橄榄或coppiette di maiale(辣味烘干猪肉条)。

2) 6 p.m., Amazingly graceful vespers


A 15-minute walk, skirting the crowds that ceaselessly mill around the Colosseum, leads to the Augustinian Basilica of Santi Quattro Coronati, one of Rome’s hidden jewels. Even if you’re not religious, the vespers sung here every evening at 6 offer a meditative bridge to day’s end (and a nice antidote to jet-lag). The nuns’ quavering voices meld perfectly with the serene geometry of the medieval floor and the ancient columns that line the nave. Try to catch a glimpse of the 13th-century cloister, a place of “extraordinary joy.” in the words of the writer Eleanor Clark.

步行15分钟,绕过罗马斗兽场四周熙熙攘攘的人群,前往罗马隐藏的珍宝之一――四殉道堂(Augustinian Basilica of Santi Quattro Coronati)。即使你不信教,每晚6点在这里颂唱的晚祷也会在一天结束之时提供冥想的桥梁(还是很好的时差“解药”)。修女颤抖的声音与中世纪地板的宁静几何形状、教堂中殿的古老柱子完美融合。尽量去瞥一眼这座13世纪的修道院,这个――用作家埃莉诺・克拉克(Eleanor Clark)的话――有着“非凡的喜悦”的地方。

3) 8:30 p.m. Foodie Paradiso


In the heart of Rome, just blocks from the Pantheon, recently opened La Ciambella serves exquisite food in a spare quiet room where you can reliably find a table. Chef Francesca Ciucci alchemizes local ingredients ― fermented black garlic, chickpea flour, red Tropea onions ― into dishes of exceptional subtlety. The purée of fava beans laced with wilted chicory makes for a green, velvety soup (7 euros) and the braised lamb on a coulee of smoked cream of red peppers (18 euros) is both buttery and lightly piquant. The wine list features Nero d’Avola from small producers like Sicily’s Azienda Gulfi. Save room for feather-light lemon meringue pie.

近期开业的La Ciambella餐厅位于罗马市中心,距离万神殿仅有几个街区,它在一个安静的房间内供应精致美食,您准能在那里找到一张桌子。厨师弗朗西斯卡・裘琪(Francesca Ciucci)将当地食材――发酵的黑蒜、鹰嘴豆粉、特罗佩亚红洋葱――精心调制成美妙的菜肴。含枯菊苣的蚕豆泥制成天鹅绒般的绿色浓汤(7欧元),烟熏红椒浓汤佐味的焖羊肉混合了浓浓的黄油味和轻微的辛辣味(18欧元)。酒单包括西西里岛Azienda Gulfi等小厂的Nero d'Avola。记得留点肚子给轻如羽毛的柠檬蛋白酥皮派。

4) 11 p.m. Party central


Walk ― or stagger ― from La Ciambella through the haunting labyrinth of Renaissance and Baroque Rome to the venerable Bar del Fico, a combination bistro and bar where you can sip a Negroni or mescal infused with ginger beer and chili (12 euros), or knock back a brandy alongside the young Romans who gather here nightly to sip and dance. D.J. sets thump away until 2 a.m.

步行或漫步――从La Ciambella出发,穿过令人难以忘怀的文艺复兴和巴洛克式罗马的迷宫,来到古老的Bar del Fico酒吧,这是一个小酒馆和酒吧的结合,在那里您可以品尝一杯含姜汁啤酒和辣椒的内格罗尼或麦斯卡尔酒(12欧元),或和年轻的罗马人一起,一口喝下一杯白兰地,他们每晚聚集在这里啜饮和跳舞。DJ的助兴会持续到凌晨2点。



5) 9 a.m. Classics without crowds


The multibranched Museo Nazionale Romano is still the city’s best kept secret for world class ancient art and architecture. The two branches flanking the Termini Station ― the Palazzo Massimo and the Baths of Diocletian ― complement each other perfectly. The Massimo’s collection of classical bronzes, mosaics and wall paintings reveal the breadth and finesse of Roman artistry, while the baths complex, once the empire’s largest, surrounds you with soaring masonry ruins, whispering fountains, and an immense cloister attributed to Michelangelo.

拥有多个附属场馆的罗马国家博物馆(Museo Nazionale Romano)仍是这座城市世界级古代艺术和建筑中保存最完好的宝藏。特米尼(Termini)站两侧的两个分支――马西莫宫(Palazzo Massimo)和戴克里先浴场(Baths of Diocletian)――相得益彰。马西莫的古典青铜器、马赛克和壁画系列展现了罗马艺术的广博和精致,而曾是帝国最大的浴场建筑群,则环绕着巍峨的砖石遗址、低语的喷泉和被认为是米开朗基罗设计建造的巨大修道院。

6) 11:30 a.m. Tomb with a view


A quick bus or cab ride from the museums delivers you to a gem that few Romans, let alone visitors, know about: the Mausoleum of Santa Costanza. Folded into a green hillside that rises above the busy artery of Via Nomentana, the circular templelike tomb of the daughter of Rome’s first Christian emperor preserves a mosaic cycle of astonishing exuberance and delicacy. Save a few minutes before the noon closing time for the seventh-century church of Sant’Agnese Fuori le Mura in the same complex. The teenage martyr venerated here presides over the apse in an austere, Byzantine-style mosaic of elongated figures set against a gold background.

从博物馆乘公交车或出租车,很快就能到达一处罕有罗马人(更不用说游客)知道的瑰宝:圣科斯坦萨陵墓(Mausoleum of Santa Costanza)。这是罗马第一位基督教皇帝之女的墓,如同圆形神庙一般的墓穴坐落在绿色山坡怀抱之中,俯瞰繁忙的主干道诺曼塔纳大街,墓中保存着一处马赛克圆环,其丰富和精致令人惊叹。抽出几分钟时间,在中午关门前,可以去同一座建筑里的7世纪圣阿格尼斯福奥里・勒穆拉教堂(Sant’Agnese Fuori le Mura)。教堂供奉着一位少年殉道者,壁龛中纤细的雕像上镶嵌着朴素的、拜占庭风格的马赛克,背后装饰着黄金。

7) 12:30 p.m. Lunch break


Gustando e Degustando, a 10-minute walk from Santa Costanza, is the hole-in-the-wall you dream of: a handful of tables, a chalkboard of daily specials, oldies burbling in the background, and simple local food of notable freshness. Beef strips on a bed of arugula (8 euros) is both light and flavorful; octopus, pesto and potatoes (10 euros) has a nice balance of succulent and savory. An extensive list of beers, wines and spirits makes this an equally good choice for an afternoon aperitif.8) 3 p.m. Spending spreeWhat a stroke of luck that two of Renaissance Rome’s most ravishing streets, Via del Pellegrino and the intersecting Via dei Banchi Vecchi, are lined with some of the city’s most tempting boutiques. From Campo de’ Fiori, pick up Via del Pellegrino and work your way west, stopping at Solodue, for edgy shoes, tops and accessories; Retropose, for oversize bags in eye-popping colors; Sciam, for glass baubles and Murano goblets; Libreria del Viaggiatore for travel books; and Libreria il Minotauro, a warren stuffed with children’s toys and books. Refuel with a coffee and pastry at Monteforte, and continue past the patrician palaces to Banchivecchi Pellami, via dei Banchi Vecchi, 40, a venerable family-run shop offering classic Italian-made belts and wallets.

Gustando Degustando餐厅距离圣科斯坦萨步行只需10分钟,它地方虽小,却是你梦寐以求的:几张桌子,黑板上写着每天的特色菜,放着老歌做背景音乐,还有简单的当地新鲜食物。放在芝麻菜上的牛肉条(8欧元)清淡美味;章鱼、意大利青酱和土豆(10欧元)多汁可口。啤酒、葡萄酒和烈性酒品种繁多,所以在这里喝下午开胃酒也不错。8)下午三点。狂欢时间。幸运的是,文艺复兴时期罗马最迷人的两条街道――佩雷格里诺街和班奇维奇街的交汇处,布满市内最诱人的精品店。从鲜花广场(Campo de’ Fiori)途径佩雷格里诺街,一路向西走,在Solodue店停一下,买些前卫的鞋子、上衣和配饰;在Retropose购买鲜艳的超大手袋;在Sciam购买指玻璃饰品和穆拉诺高脚杯;在Viaggiatore书店购买旅行书籍;还有一家名为Minotauro的书店,里面摆满了儿童玩具和书籍。在Monteforte喝杯咖啡,吃吃点心,然后穿过气派的宫殿,来到班奇维奇街40号的Banchivecchi Pellami,这是由一个古老的家族经营商店,提供经典的意大利制腰带和钱包。

9) 6 p.m. Delight the inner child


No one loves a crèche ― presepio in Italian ― more than the Italians, and at the International Museum of the Presepio you can revel in the finest examples of this folk art from all over the world and down through the ages. Open only on Wednesdays and Saturdays from 5 to 7:30 p.m. (with extended hours from Christmas to Jan. 6), the museum is in the basement of the tiny church of SS. Quirico e Giulitta, at the edge of Monti.10) 9 p.m. Raw and CookedPacked nightly with well-heeled Romans, Ristorante Ottavio is worth the cab ride out to the southern fringe of the Esquiline district for supremely fresh seafood, both raw and cooked, served with low-key elegance and practiced flair. Let your server guide you to house specialties and daily catches, which might include plump shrimp with sweet Trochea onions (38.50 euros), linguine with small octopus, and a lavish platter of boiled lobster studded with potatoes and tomatoes (45 euro).

意大利人对马槽圣景(意大利语叫presepio)的喜爱无人能及,在国际马槽圣景博物馆(International Museum of the Presepio)里,你可以欣赏到来自世界各地、各个时代关于耶稣降生场景的民间艺术杰作。博物馆只在周三和周六下午5点到7点半开放(从圣诞节到1月6日延长开放时间),它位于蒙蒂边缘的圣基里科与朱利塔教堂(SS. Quirico e Giulitta)的地下室。10)晚上9点。生鲜与熟食。Ristorante Ottavio位于埃斯基林区的南部边缘,那里每晚都挤满了穿着考究的罗马人,值得打车到那里去品尝极其新鲜的海鲜,生熟都有,均以低调的优雅和熟练的技巧呈上。让服务员指导你品尝特色菜和每日特色菜,其中可能包括甜葱肥虾(38.50欧元)、小章鱼扁意面,以及一盘丰盛的,配有土豆和西红柿的煮龙虾(45欧元)。

11) 11 p.m. Neighborhood bistro


Brooklyn hipster hang meets London pub at Sazerac, a cozy little neighborhood boîte with a great sound track (from rock to Reggae) just around the corner from Ottavio. Grab a tiny bistro table and settle in with a My Sazerac (cognac, absinthe and Morlacco bitters, 7 euros), a Fog Cutter (rum, cognac, gin and lime, 7 euros) or artisanal beer. For more serious partying and dancing later in the evening, continue on to Circolo degli Illuminati in the Ostiense neighborhood or the recently opened Live Alcazar in Trastevere.

Sazerac既像布鲁克林的潮人聚集地,又像伦敦的酒吧,是一个舒适的邻家小夜店,有很棒的音乐(从摇滚到雷鬼),从Ottavio餐厅出来拐个弯就到。找张小桌坐下,喝一杯“My Sazerac”鸡尾酒(科尼亚克白兰地、苦艾酒和莫拉科苦酒调成,7欧元),一杯“切雾“(朗姆酒、科尼亚克白兰地、杜松子酒和酸橙调成,7欧元),或者手工酿制的啤酒。晚上晚些时候,如果想参加更隆重的派对和舞会,可以继续前往奥斯廷塞一带的Circolo degli Illuminati,或者最近在特拉斯提弗列开业的Live Alcazar。



12) 10:30 a.m. Scale the heights


The Janiculum, Rome’s second highest and leafiest hill, has a glorious pedestrian path that rambles past huge sycamore trees, fountains, monuments, statues and stately palaces (many now embassies and academies). Pick up the path at the edge of Vatican City and join Roman families for a leisurely ascent to the Fontanone ― literally the Big Fountain ― the immense early-17th-century water feature that Paolo Sorrentino used in the opening shots of his film “La Grande Bellezza.”

贾尼科洛山是罗马第二高的山,这里绿树成荫,一条壮丽的步行道在山间蜿蜒,途径高大的梧桐树、喷泉、纪念碑、雕像和庄严的宫殿(现在许多宫殿都成了大使馆和学院)。沿着梵蒂冈城边缘的小路,和出游的罗马家庭一起攀登,来到Fontanone――意思是大喷泉――保罗・索伦蒂诺(Paolo Sorrentino)的电影《绝美之城》(La Grande Bellezza)一开场拍的就是这座17世纪早期落成的巨大水景。

13) 1 p.m. Family lunch


Some of the same families you encountered on the Janiculum passeggiata may well be lunching beside you at Antico Arco, a sleek, stylish and deliciously adventurous restaurant at the summit of the hill just outside the Porta San Pancrazio. Seared scallops with red pepper and basil (22 euros) makes for a standout starter, and the spaghetti with pecorino and zucchini flowers (16 euros) is a welcome variation on the city’s ubiquitous pasta with cacio e pepe.

你在贾尼科洛步行道上遇到的一些家庭,很可能就和你一样,到Antico Arco餐厅来吃午餐。这家餐厅位于圣潘克拉齐奥港外的山顶上,是一家漂亮、时尚的餐厅,菜肴美味且极具冒险精神。烤扇贝配红辣椒和罗勒(22欧元)是一道出色的开胃菜,搭配绵羊芝士和胡瓜花的意面(16欧元)也很受欢迎,它是罗马随处可见的黑胡椒奶酪面的改良版。

14) 2:30 p.m. Ciao, gelato

14) 下午2点30分。你好,冰淇淋

Even in winter, a visit to Rome is not complete without a cone or cup of gelato. Romans will argue fiercely that their neighborhood gelateria is the best, but no place has more original flavors than the Fatamorgana chain. Wasabi chocolate; and almond milk, mint and ginseng are just a few of the odder scoops on offer. Luckily, the Trastevere branch is an easy (downhill) walk from the top of the Janiculum.


LodgingRental apartments are abundant around the Borgo, the Spanish Steps, Campo de’ Fiori and the Coliseum. Expect to pay between $80 and $120 for a one-bedroom.


The Hotel Locarno, with generous high-ceilinged rooms, a fabulous bar and a lovely courtyard, is an oasis of class and tranquillity a stone’s throw from Piazza del Popolo. Double rooms from $156.

洛迦诺酒店(The Hotel Locarno)拥有宽敞高挑的房间、绝佳的酒吧和可爱的庭院,如同一座优雅宁静的绿洲,离人民广场只有几步之遥。双人房156美元起。

Across the piazza on a quaintly picturesque street, the year-and-a-half old Margutta 19 offers 16 plush, modern rooms and suites surrounding a terraced green hillside. Doubles with breakfast from $450.

穿过广场,在一条风景如画的街道上,坐落着开业一年半的Margutta 19酒店,这里提供16间豪华、现代的客房和套房,从露台可以看到周围的绿色山坡。提供早餐的双人间起价450美元。

Hotel Raffaello, between the Termini Station and the Monti neighborhood, is quiet, convenient and affordable with richly furnished rooms, some with terraces, starting at $111.

位于特米尼火车站(Termini Station)和蒙蒂之间的Hotel Raffaello安静、方便,而且价格适中,房间有着丰富的陈设,其中一些有露台,起价111美元。

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